Footwear Fiasco: Prada’s Controversial Sandal Launch
At Milan Vogue Week on June 22, 2025, Prada unveiled its Spring-Summer time 2026 menswear assortment, together with a minimalist “leather-based footwear” design that bore an uncanny resemblance to India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappal—and ignited a worldwide uproar inside hours.
These slipper-style sandals, with their braided T-strap design, instantly caught international consideration, not for his or her luxurious attraction, however for his or her putting similarity to India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappals, a handcrafted leather-based sandal with a centuries-old heritage rooted in Kolhapur, Maharashtra.
Why Did They Go Viral?
The sandals went viral virtually immediately, however not for the explanations Prada might need hoped. Social media platforms, significantly X and Instagram, exploded with reactions as customers acknowledged the design as almost an identical to Kolhapuri chappals, a cultural staple worn by everybody from farmers to city millennials in India.
Posts on X referred to as out Prada for what many noticed as a “shameless money seize,” with one person, @WokePandemic, noting that Kolhapuris, offered domestically for ₹300-₹1,500 ($4-$18), have been being rebranded as luxurious gadgets doubtlessly priced at ₹1.2 lakh ($1,400). One other put up by @thebetterindia highlighted the artisans’ battle, stating, “These iconic sandals, handmade in Maharashtra for hundreds of years, inform tales of custom, resilience, and royalty. But, artisans nonetheless battle low earnings and fading recognition.”
The viral outrage was fueled by memes, sarcastic feedback, and hashtags equivalent to #KolhapuriChappals, which amplified the controversy over cultural appropriation.
The Controversy: Cultural Appropriation or Impressed Design?
Design Resemblance
Kolhapuri chappals, crafted for the reason that twelfth century by artisans from marginalized communities just like the Dalit Chamar, characteristic intricate braided leather-based straps and toe loops. Prada’s sandals mirrored this aesthetic, all the way down to the braiding sample, however omitted any acknowledgment of their Indian origins, prompting accusations of design theft.
Awarded Geographical Indication (GI) standing in 2019, Kolhapuris are protected in India, however as IP skilled Sonal Madan notes, this presents no worldwide enforcement, leaving artisans susceptible to international manufacturers.
Cultural Appropriation Debate
The controversy reignited a broader dialogue: the place is the road between cultural inspiration and appropriation? Cultural appropriation, as outlined by style historian Swati Sharma, happens when “parts of tradition, significantly these of traditionally oppressed or colonized societies, are adopted by dominant teams with out consent, attribution, or compensation.”
Prada’s preliminary silence on the Kolhapuri inspiration was seen as exploitative, particularly since artisans earn ₹250-₹400 ($3-$5) per pair whereas luxurious manufacturers revenue considerably.
Indian designer Ritu Beri emphasised, “It’s about moral recognition. India should push for royalty-sharing and co-branding.” Some, like artisan Shivaraj Soudagar, noticed a silver lining, noting that Prada’s highlight might globalize the craft, however provided that artisans are pretty compensated. Others, together with BJP MP Dhananjay Mahadik, referred to as it a “severe infringement on Maharashtra’s cultural id,” demanding authorized motion.
Public Response
The backlash was swift and multifaceted. On X, customers like @folkloristan posted, “No @prada – these aren’t ‘leather-based sandals’ – this can be a kolapuri. You don’t get to look down upon our traditions, solely to repackage them.” Vogue watchdog Food regimen Sabya shared runway footage, critiquing Western manufacturers’ historical past of appropriating Indian designs.
Bollywood star Kareena Kapoor Khan additionally jumped into the dialog, amplifying it far past the style bubble. She posted a photograph of her personal conventional Kolhapuri chappals on Instagram with the caption:
“Sorry not Prada…however my OG Kolhapuri.”
The cheeky put up shortly went viral, garnering hundreds of likes and feedback praising her for standing up for Indian artisans. As ABP Dwell reported, Kareena’s nod was extensively interpreted as each a cultural clapback and a reminder that genuine Kolhapuris are nonetheless a part of on a regular basis Indian life, with out the posh markup.
Cultural historians and journalists weighed in, with Kanika Gahlaut noting that whereas Prada’s actions lacked authorized grounds for infringement, they raised “moral points” by not initially crediting the supply. The human rights group Dalit Voice underscored the sandals’ significance as “a legacy of Dalit craftsmanship and resilience,” amplifying requires respect.
In the meantime, memes mocked the worth disparity, with one viral put up quipping, “Prada’s promoting my dad’s sandals for ₹1.2 lakh!”
For shoppers who view luxurious as an expression of their values, this controversy serves as a poignant reminder that provenance and authenticity are simply as necessary as design.
Prada’s Response
Going through mounting strain, Prada issued a response on June 27, 2025, by way of Lorenzo Bertelli, head of company social duty. In a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Business, and Agriculture (MACCIA), Bertelli acknowledged that the sandals have been “impressed by conventional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage.”
He clarified that the design was nonetheless in growth and never but commercialized, including, “We’re dedicated to accountable design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue with native Indian artisan communities.”
MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi praised the transfer. Nevertheless, artisans like Prabha Satpute remained cautious, telling BBC Marathi, “They need to be named after Kolhapur. Don’t exploit our labor.”
Prada’s Path Ahead: A Collaborative Capsule Assortment
In a big step ahead, Prada introduced on July 11, 2025, plans to launch a limited-edition “Made in India” Kolhapuri-inspired sandal assortment in collaboration with Maharashtra artisans, following a digital assembly with MACCIA. The gathering will adjust to GI-tag necessities and goals to raise Maharashtra’s cultural heritage globally. A Prada technical staff will go to Maharashtra the week of July 14, 2025, to work with over 3,000 artisans, specializing in cultural recognition, moral sourcing, truthful commerce, co-branded growth, information change, coaching, ability growth, design innovation, sustainability, and cross-border residencies.
Prada can be exploring partnerships for Paithani weaving, Himroo textiles, Bichwas/Payal (anklets), and regional embroidery, signaling a broader dedication to Indian crafts. MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi referred to as this a “paradigm shift for Indian craftsmanship.”
The partnership addresses accusations of cultural appropriation by involving artisans immediately, making certain truthful compensation and cultural recognition. It additionally units a precedent for luxurious manufacturers to interact authentically with conventional crafts.
The West’s Longstanding Fascination with Indian Heritage
Prada’s Kolhapuri controversy could be the newest flashpoint. Nonetheless, it’s hardly the primary time European luxurious homes have mined Indian tradition for artistic inspiration—generally with little greater than a passing nod to their sources. Over the previous twenty years, Indian motifs, textiles, and symbols have incessantly appeared on runways, in campaigns, and high-profile collaborations. Listed here are only a few examples that underscore this persistent sample:
Throughout Pharrell Williams’ second menswear present, staged on Paris’ oldest bridge, the model unveiled a playful miniature autorickshaw bag—full with three wheels and a tiny roof. A ₹35 lakh bag formed like an auto—a stark distinction between affordability and luxurious pricing. Whereas some praised it as a tribute to Indian road tradition, others criticized it as an costly novelty that diminished a well-known a part of day by day Indian life to a collectible prop. You can purchase 15 actual auto-rickshaws for that worth,’ quip netizens.
Maria Grazia Chiuri introduced a shimmering, mukaish-embroidered lengthy coat, echoing the standard metal-thread embellishment perfected by artisans in Lucknow. Regardless of the craftsmanship on show, the gathering supplied minimal credit score or context concerning the heritage approach, sparking quiet discontent amongst textile specialists.
Through the years, Gaultier has integrated saree-inspired drapes, turbans, bindis, and sherwani jackets into his couture traces, describing them as celebrations of “unique attract.” Whereas undeniably theatrical, these collections typically handled Indian tradition as a stylistic flourish relatively than a dwelling custom.
- John Galliano (Dior, early 2000s):
Galliano’s collections drew closely on Mughal silhouettes, together with empire-waist tunics and lavish brocades harking back to the royal courts of India. Although visually beautiful, the designs hardly ever credited their subcontinental origins.
- Karl Lagerfeld (Chanel, 2012):
Chanel’s Métiers d’Artwork assortment was staged in Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Palace Lodge, that includes fashions in Nehru-collar jackets and sari-inspired drapes. Regardless of the grand setting, mentions of Indian embroiderers and artisans remained relegated to tiny footnotes within the press relatively than receiving front-and-center acknowledgment.
This recurring fascination displays a sophisticated fact: Indian heritage has turn out to be a wealthy supply of visible language for luxurious style, but native communities are hardly ever full members within the earnings or storytelling.
In lots of of those instances, manufacturers have supplied restricted transparency about sourcing, compensation, or collaboration, fueling the argument that what is commonly billed as a cultural change can look suspiciously like extraction wearing luxurious packaging.
As designer Shirin Mann noticed:
“It’s time for manufacturers to appreciate that referencing a tradition comes with a duty to credit score and uplift the individuals who formed it.”
Broader Dialogue: Inspiration vs. Appropriation
Prada’s Kolhapuri controversy isn’t a one-off. It’s half of a bigger, persistent sample in international style, the place inspiration blurs into exploitation. Right here’s the way it stacks up:
Excessive-Profile Circumstances of Alleged Cultural Appropriation in Luxurious Vogue:
Dior (2019)
- Impressed piece: A set modeled after the apparel of Mexican escaramuzas (horsewomen).
- Controversy: Launched with out credit score or collaboration with Mexican artisans. Native designers accused Dior of exoticizing a dwelling custom.
- Response: Dior later partnered with artisans in Chiapas, however solely after public outcry.
Isabel Marant (2015)
- Impressed piece: A shirt design matching the standard embroidery of Mexico’s Mixe neighborhood.
- Controversy: The shirt carefully resembled Mixe patterns protected beneath Mexican regulation. Marant initially claimed originality earlier than admitting “inadvertent” borrowing.
- Response: The Mexican authorities took authorized steps, pushing for worldwide craft protections.
Gucci (2018)
- Impressed piece: Turban-style headwear offered as “Indy Full Turban.”
- Controversy: Sikh communities protested, citing deep spiritual symbolism. Critics slammed the sale of sacred cultural id as trendwear.
- Response: Gucci pulled the product and issued an apology.
Victoria’s Secret (2012)
- Impressed piece: A runway costume that includes Native American battle bonnets.
- Controversy: The headdress is sacred in lots of Indigenous tribes, not a style prop.
- Response: The model issued a public apology and lower the look from the published.
Prada’s Pradamalia Blackface Controversy (2018)
The Kolhapuri sandal scandal echoes previous controversies for Prada—most notably its 2018 Pradamalia collectible figurines, which have been pulled after public outcry over their resemblance to blackface imagery.
- In December 2018, Prada got here beneath intense international scrutiny after launching a vacation window show at its SoHo retailer in New York Metropolis, that includes small collectible figurines and keychains from its Pradamalia assortment. The gadgets—meant to be whimsical, fictional creatures—have been half of a bigger marketing campaign that includes monkey-like characters with darkish brown faces and outsized purple lips.
Though the model later fashioned a Variety Council, critics argue that the most recent appropriation controversy reveals systemic points that stay unresolved.
The Kolhapuri Case in Context
- Financial Disparity: Whereas Prada priced its sandals over ₹1.2 lakh (~$1,300), precise Kolhapuris made by Indian artisans promote for as little as ₹600 ($7), typically with razor-thin margins.
Declining Craftsmanship: In line with The Indian Specific, solely 15,000–20,000 artisans stay within the Kolhapuri ecosystem, down from over 100,000 in previous a long time. Craft survival is threatened not simply by appropriation but in addition by:
- Cow safety legal guidelines (since 2014) have constrained leather-based availability.
- Rising uncooked materials prices.
- Restricted youth curiosity in pursuing conventional crafts.
- Authorized Loopholes: India’s Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Kolhapuris (awarded in 2019) presents home safety however lacks worldwide enforcement.
As IP skilled Sonal Madan notes, this leaves artisans susceptible on the worldwide stage. The PIL towards Prada within the Bombay Excessive Courtroom might set a precedent, however enforcement overseas stays murky.
Wishful Pondering: As per the most recent information there was a authorized fallout
Prada Denies GI Violation in ₹500 Crore Row
As international scrutiny mounted, Prada denied infringing on the Geographical Indication (GI) rights of Kolhapuri chappals, claiming their sandals have been an unbiased design.
However visible similarities and 0 acknowledgment of Indian craftsmanship have critics calling foul. The talk has moved past regulation to ethics.
And this isn’t nearly social media backlash:
- A ₹500 crore authorized discover has reportedly been served, as per The Financial Occasions.
- The luxurious world is being requested to reply for an extended historical past of cherry-picking tradition with out crediting its creators.
A International Push to Decolonize Vogue
From Prada’s Kolhapuri-inspired sandals to Dior’s mukaish embroidery and Louis Vuitton’s autorickshaw bag, luxurious style’s flirtation with cultural motifs is nothing new. However the message is loud and clear: surface-level homage is now not sufficient.
The way forward for style calls for greater than aesthetic appropriation. It requires:
- Clear sourcing and design narratives
- Truthful compensation for artisans
- Collaborations that co-credit cultural origins
As Lalit Gandhi, president of the Kolhapuri Footwear Affiliation, informed The Hindu:
“Cultural change in style is nice, but it surely has to come back with correct credit score and collaboration.”
Designer Shirin Mann agrees—however sees a silver lining:
“If this sparks delight and demand domestically, it may be the highlight Kolhapuris wanted.”
What we’re witnessing is a shift—from blind status to aware provenance. For luxurious manufacturers to stay related, moral storytelling isn’t a advertising and marketing angle. It’s a mandate.
Prada’s Turning Level: What Occurs Subsequent?
This second isn’t about injury management—it’s about defining Prada’s legacy.
Key questions to observe:
- Repeat Offender? From Pradamalia’s blackface backlash to this, is Prada exhibiting a sample—or studying from previous errors?
- Speak vs. Motion: Empty statements gained’t lower it. Shoppers are demanding co-branded Kolhapuri releases, formal royalties, and public acknowledgment of affect.
- Shifting Public Sentiment: Social platforms have moved from outrage to organized calls for—hashtags now name for accountability, transparency, and compensation.
Will Prada Lead or Lag?
Actual change means:
- Royalties on the file
- Clear “impressed by” tags
- Artisan-led collaborations with equal billing
And if Prada doesn’t step up? Shoppers have energy. Vote along with your pockets. Help manufacturers that pay their muses, not simply revenue from them.
As a result of let’s face it—luxurious with out ethics is out of style.
At The Luxurious Closet: Vogue Meets Integrity
In an age of accountability, each model should reply a easy set of questions:
- Who advantages from this design?
- Who’s being erased?
- Who earnings from this tradition?
At The Luxurious Closet, fashion ought to include substance. Every bit we feature tells a narrative of expertise, heritage, and authenticity. We don’t simply authenticate merchandise. We respect the palms that made them.
So, as the style world confronts its blind spots, select properly.
